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Dermatologist's Manual: How to use Derma Roller for Hair Growth


Using a derma roller is easy as it just involves rolling it on your head in different directions but the real trick is the pre and post care. To use a derma roller effectively, it is important to choose the right needle size, prepare your skin & scalp for the process and sterilize the roller. You also have to ensure that the post-treatment care is done properly. We are here to tell you all! 

This blog will explore derma roller and how to use it in detail along with its effectiveness, offering insights, tips and step-by-step guide on how to use derma roller for hair

What is a Derma Roller? 

Derma rolling, also known as micro needling or collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic procedure that involves the use of a device called derma roller. This device has a cylindrical shape with tiny needles that usually vary in length from 0.2 mm to 1.5 mm. The derma roller is a manual tool equipped with numerous small needles that are rolled over the skin, generating numerous tiny pinpricks, referred to as micropores, on the skin's surface. These needles are crafted from surgical stainless steel or medical-grade titanium. While derma rolling is commonly used for skin rejuvenation, it has also gained attention as a potential method for promoting hair growth.  

What is a Derma Roller Used for? 

Derma rollers are versatile tools suitable for use on the skin, beard, and scalp. The primary goal is to promote collagen production, enhance circulation, and encourage cellular turnover, leading to various benefits for both skin and hair. Individuals facing hair loss often explore derma roller for hair growth as an effective option. Similar to micro needling procedures performed by dermatologists, at-home derma rolling induces small tears in the skin or scalp. This action serves as a signal to the brain to initiate the healing process, resulting in increased blood flow and collagen production in the targeted area.  

How to Use Derma Roller for Hair Growth

If you’re considering derma roller for hair growth, you have two options: professional clinic treatments by a licensed dermatologist or at-home sessions. While professional clinic visits may yield better results, the cost can be prohibitive over time, making at-home micro needling an attractive alternative.

A recommended approach is to start with a few professional treatments to gain experience. After that, armed with insights, you can confidently transition to at-home micro needling. 

How to use Derma Roller for Hair
Step by Step Guide 

How to use Derma Roller for Hair

1. Sterilizing the derma roller

Sterilizing your derma roller after every use is very important to avoid any risk. One must follow a meticulous process to maintain their derma roller to avoid any skin infection and ensure hygiene. 

Here is a step-to-step guide for cleaning your derma roller

Step 1. Remove Roller Head: Gently twist or pull apart the roller head from the handle.

Step 2. Rinse Under Water: Wash the roller head under warm water to remove debris and product residue.

Step 3. Prepare Cleaning Solution: Mix 70% isopropyl alcohol or gentle liquid soap with warm water. Submerge roller head for 15-20 mins to disinfect.

Step 4. Agitate and Scrub: Gently move the roller in the solution to dislodge dirt. Use a soft brush to scrub thoroughly, ensuring needle cleanliness.

Step 5. Rinse and Air Dry: Rinse the roller head under water to remove the cleaning agent. Air dry on a clean towel to avoid lint or particles.

Note: Remember to clean your derma roller after every use to ensure hygiene and longevity. 


2. Preparing the scalp with a hair wash

It is important to ensure that your scalp is clean before using derma roller for hair. Hair wash is a crucial step before using a derma roller on your scalp. Follow the given steps to prepare your scalp with a hair wash before using derma roller. 

Step 1. Choose a Gentle Shampoo: Select a mild, gentle shampoo suitable for your hair type. Avoid harsh chemicals that may irritate the scalp.

Step 2. Thoroughly Wet Your Hair: Wet your hair completely before applying the shampoo. Ensure thorough saturation for effective cleansing.

Step 3. Apply Shampoo and Massage: Use an adequate amount of shampoo and distribute it evenly. Gently massage the scalp to create a lather.

Step 4. Focus on the Scalp: Concentrate on the scalp while washing to remove oils, dirt, and product residues. Use your fingertips to avoid excessive pressure.

Step 5. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair and scalp thoroughly to eliminate all shampoo residues. Ensure no product remains on the scalp.

Step 6. Pat Scalp Dry: After washing, pat your scalp dry with a clean, soft towel. Avoid vigorous rubbing to prevent irritation.

Step 7. Wait Before Derma Roller Use: Allow your scalp to air dry or use a hairdryer on a low, cool setting. Ensure your scalp is completely dry before using the derma roller.

By following this scalp preparation routine, you create a clean environment for derma roller application, maximizing its effectiveness and reducing the risk of potential complications. Regularly incorporating this pre-derma roller hair wash routine can contribute to a healthier scalp and better results.


3. Using the Derma Roller 

  • Roll the derma roller in various directions: horizontally, vertically, diagonally, for 15-20 minutes. 
  • Don't be too harsh with the derma roller. Apply enough pressure for mild discomfort; pinpoint bleeding is not necessary.
  • Caution against excessive pressure to avoid bleeding and potential infection, especially when doing it at home.


    4. Drying and brushing hair after using derma roller 

    It is important to understand how to dry and brush your hair after using a derma roller. The following post-derma roller care routine ensures a gentle approach, promoting a healthy scalp and enhancing the effectiveness of the treatment.

    After using a derma roller, gently pat your hair and scalp dry with a clean towel. 
    • Allow your hair to air dry or use a low-heat setting on a blow dryer. 
    • When brushing choose a wide-toothed comb, starting from the tips to minimize breakage. 
    • Be patient and avoid tight hairstyles. 
    • Refrain from using high-temperature styling tools immediately after the treatment. 
    • Clean your brushes regularly to prevent the buildup of dirt and bacteria. 


    Derma Roller Needle Size for Hair: 

    The first question an individual has is which derma roller size is best for hair regrowth? Derma roller needles range from 0.25 mm to 1.5 mm. Studies suggest using needles between 1.0 mm -1.5 mm for the best result. Selecting the right needle size is an important step when starting derma treatment for hair regrowth.

    How many times to use Derma Roller for Hair: 

    Microneedle once a week; more frequent sessions do not necessarily yield better results and may increase side effects. Even one session every 3 weeks can stimulate regrowth.


    Maintain good hygiene by ensuring a clean scalp, sterilizing the derma roller before each treatment, and avoiding the sharing of derma rollers. Hygiene and maintenance is a must! 


    Tips for using derma roller hair growth


    • Short Hair: Keep hair short for easier rolling and better visibility of results. Facilities penetration into the skin, promoting new hair visibility.
    • Scalp Massage: Combine derma rolling with scalp massage for potential enhanced regrowth.
    • Oral Supplements: Consider combining derma rolling with the systemic treatments like supplements (e.g. Hair Ras by Traya is a great supplement for hair).
    • Targeted Treatment: Focus on balding areas for efficient use of time. Use proper technique, rolling in all directions without excessive pressure.
    • Professional Initial Sessions: Consider having the first session at a licensed practitioner’s office to learn the correct technique before transitioning to at-home sessions.

    Derma rolling when done correctly and consistently, can be a cost-effective method for stimulating hair regrowth. Always follow proper hygiene practices and adhere to recommended guidelines for a safe and effective microneedling experience.

    How does derma roller work for hair growth? 

    When the derma roller is gently rolled over the scalp, the fine needles create micro-injuries in the skin. These micro-injuries stimulate the body’s natural wound healing response, triggering the production of collagen and growth factors. 

    The increased collagen production helps to strengthen and improve the elasticity of the skin on the scalp, creating a healthier environment for hair follicles. Additionally, the micro needling process enhances blood circulation to the scalp, promoting better nutrient and oxygen delivery to the hair follicles. This improved blood flow is crucial for the optimal functioning of hair follicles and the promotion of hair growth. 

    Furthermore, the micro-channels created by the derma roller facilitate the better absorption of topical hair growth predicts, such as minoxidil or other serums, into the scalp. The combined effect of micro needling and enhanced product adsorption makes derma rollers a popular tool for those seeking to address hair loss and stimulate natural hair regrowth. Regular and careful use of derma roller may contribute to thicker, healthier hair over time. 

    Who can use a derma roller for hair growth?

    Derma rollers for hair are suitable for those seeking an at-home hair loss solution, serving as an initial step for regrowth or in combination with topical products like hair loss serums. While generally applicable, individuals with skin conditions such as psoriasis or eczema or a history of blood clots should consult a doctor or dermatologist before use. It’s essential to avoid derma rolling on an area with active cane or warts to prevent potential spread across the skin. 

    How to Choose a Derma Roller?

    There are several factors to consider when choosing the right derma roller for you. Factors such as needle size, handle design, needle material and much more must be considered to ensure safety and effectiveness of derma roller for an individual. 

    Needle Size

    Derma rollers come with varying needle size, typically ranging from 0.25 mm to 1.5 mm. For hair growth, 540 short microneedles at 0.5 mm are commonly recommended. The appropriate needle size may vary based on your specific goals, ensuring effective scalp stimulation without causing undue discomfort. 

    Handle Design

    Always consider the design and material of the derma roller handle. Choose a handle made from sturdy materials for durability. Opt for a design that offers a comfortable grip to enhance control during the rolling process and reduce the risk for accidents during use. 

    Needle Material 

    Common needle materials used for derma rollers are stainless steel and titanium. Choose a derma roller with needles made of titanium or medical-grade stainless steel. Titanium is preferred for durability, while stainless steel endures effectiveness and safety. 

    Reputable Brand

    Select a derma roller from a reputable brand to ensure quality and safety. Research thoroughly through customer reviews, product specification, and the brand’s reputation in the market. Seek professional help if you can’t decide which derma roller brand to choose. 

    Specific Goals

    Tailor your derma roller choice to your specific hair growth objectives. Understanding which derma roller would be best for your scalp and helps in hair growth is very important. Different needle sizes and materials may be more suitable for certain goals. 

    While choosing derma roller for yourself, prioritize safely, user comfort, and effectiveness in making your decision. Always consult with professionals if unsure about the most suitable derma roller for your needs.  


    At-Home vs. Professional Derma Roller Treatments 


    At-Home Derma Roller Treatments

    Professional Derma Roller Treatments

    Needle Size

    Generally 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm

    May use longer needles, possibly requiring local anesthesia


    Self-administered at home

    Performed by trained practitioners in a clinical setting


    Requires user precision

    Offers a higher level of expertise and precision


    More accessible and can be done at any time

    Requires scheduling appointments


    Suitable for regular maintenance

    Suitable for specialized care and addressing specific hair loss concerns


    When used properly, minimal risk of injury; hygiene practices mitigate infection risk

    Generally safe with proper expertise and precautions


    May cause mild discomfort, manageable with correct usage

    May involve local anesthesia for comfort

    Decision-Making Factors

    Needle size (0.5 mm to 1.0 mm), material (titanium or stainless steel), and needle length

    Evaluate scalp condition, desired outcomes, budget, and handle design for comfort


    Consider your commitment to regular use, hair loss severity, reputable brands with positive reviews

    Consult with professionals if uncertain about the choice


    Safety, scalp condition assessment, and desired outcomes

    Quality and safety over cost

    Understanding derma roller for hair and its types 

    As the derma roller for hair growth is gaining popularity, numerous advanced technologies and options are emerging in the market. Understanding the fundamentals of each derma roller and its various types allows individuals to choose the most suitable option for their specific skin care or hair care goals.

    1. Derma roller 

    The original micro needling tool, the derma roller, is a handheld device shaped like a drum with 192 stainless steel or titanium needles. It is manually rolled over the skin in various directions. Derma rollers for hair come in different sizes: 

    • Regular size having 192 to 540 needles for the face or scalp
    • Body rollers, three times wider with 1000 to 1700 needles, are ideal for larger areas
    • Mini rollers, with 192 to 250 needles, target small and sensitive areas.

    Needles lengths on derma rollers range from 0.1mm to 3mm, addressing various skin concerns. Due to the rolling motion, the needles penetrate at an angle, potentially causing micro-tearing and increased recovery time. Derma rollers can typically be used 10-15 times before disposal, but advanced models offer interchangeable heads for cost-effective replacement.


    2. Derma pen

    The derma pen, also known as a micro pen or micro needling pen, represents an upgraded version of the derma roller. It is a smaller, pen-like device with replaceable single-use needle cartridges containing 9 to 36 small needles, often mistaken for a misbranded as a derma stamp.

    Unlike derma roller and derma stamp, which are not motorized and can be disinfected, the needle cartridge of the derma pen needs to be disposed of after each treatment, lasting up to 15 treatments. The key distinction between derma pen and derma roller lies in the derma pen being a fully automated, electrically powered, and rechargeable micro needling device.

    Functionally, the derma pen operates with a stamp-like motion over the treated area, held perpendicular to the skin and switched on for the penetration motion, contrasting with the manual rolling action of derma roller.


    3. Derma stamp

    The derma stamp is a blend of derma roller and derma pen, resembling a stamp tool in design. Unlike the cylindrical derma roller, the dermas tamp features a round, square, or rectangular-shaped flat tip covered in tiny needles attached to a handle. Due to its flat surface, the derma stamp is pressed vertically (stamped)  into the skin, creating precise and even treatment without the angled puncture wounds associated with derma rollers.


    Derma roller VS Derma pen VS Derma stamp: Understanding the differences



    Derma roller

    Derma pen

    Derma stamp


    Handheld device shaped like a drum

    Pen-like device with replaceable needle cartridges

    Stamp like took with a flat tip

    Needle Configuration

    192 to 540 needles for face/scalp

    9 to 36 needles in replaceable cartridges 

    20-140 needles, varying in size and configuration

    Needle Material 

    Stainless steel or titanium

    Small needles in disposable cartridges

    Tiny needles on a flat tip

    Needle Length

    0.1mm to 3mm

    Varies, not specified 

    Varies, not specified


    Manual rolling

    Automated stamp-like motion

    Manual pressing (stamp)

    Power Source

    None (manual)

    Electrically powered, rechargeable 

    None (manual)


    Requires separate sanitization solution

    Disposable needle cartridges

    Requires separate sanitization solution

    Usage Limit

    10-15 times before disposal (some models allow interchangeable heads)

    Disposable needle cartridges, upto 15 treatments

    Not specified, likely disposable after a certain number of uses

    Treatment Area

    Face, scalp, body (various sizes available)

    Face, body, various needle cartridges available 

    Face, body, various sizes available 

    Motion Direction

    Various directions due to rolling motion 

    Perpendicular stamping motion

    Vertical pressing (stamp)

    Micro-tearing risk

    Possible due to angled penetration 

    Reduced risk due to stamp-like motion

    Reduced risk due to flat, even pressing motion


    User responsibility for research and maintenance

    Dispose needle cartridges after each treatment 

    User responsibility for research and maintenance

    Derma roller for hair growth mechanism explained

    Initially employed by dermatologists for scar healing and skin rejuvenation, derma rolling involves creating punctures and micro-incisions to harness their skin-enhancing benefits. Studies suggest its potential in preventing hair loss and promoting hair growth. Enhancing blood circulation in the scalp and stimulating cell regeneration creates a healthier environment for optimal hair growth. Let's delve into understanding the mechanism of the derma roller for hair growth: 

    1. Accelerated Product Absorption 

    The derma roller facilitates the swift absorption of hair products into the scalp by penetrating the skin’s dermal layer. Users commonly apply various treatments for hair loss, such as topical steroids, platelet-rich plasma, and minoxidil during micro-needling sessions. 

    2. Scalp Massage and Increased Blood Flow

    Scientific studies indicate that derma rollers enhance blood circulation in the scalp, promoting hair growth and thickening. Micro-needling triggers  the natural regeneration of collagen and elastin in the body, fostering not  only hair growth but also clearer and more radiant skin.

    3. Enhanced Oxygen Supply to the Roots

    Derma roller for hair encourages blood flow around the roots, ensuring a more robust environment for hair growth.

    4. Hair Thickening and Prevention of Excessive Shedding

    Micro-needling prompts hair germination during the anagen phase of hair growth, resulting in new hair that is stronger and thicker due to the increased collagen around the hair follicles. This helps prevent excessive hair fall. 

    5. Prolonged Hair Regression Prevention

    In the catagen phase, where hair follicles shrink and growth diminishes, micro-needling aids in preventing hair shedding, contributing to the prolongation of the hair regression phase.


    Essential Oils and Serums for Enhanced Results

    Essential oils, extracted from plants through distillation, are not just pleasing atoms but powerful treatment for your scalp. These oils, rich in beneficial compounds, are lightweight and easy to use. After derma rolling, essential oils and serums can nourish the scalp, improve hair health, and one can achieve stronger and thicker hair with minimal side effects. There are some oils and serums that address specific scalp issues. Consulting with professional doctors on which oil and serum to use is important. 

    Best Essential Oils to use with your derma roller for hair

    1. Lavender Oil 

    Lavender essential oil, extracted from lavender flowers, stimulates hair growth due to its antibacterial and antifungal properties. Studies show it can speed up hair growth when applied topically. Combining lavender oil with derma rolling is a simple and effective way to encourage faster hair growth and address hair loss concerns. 

    Application method: For a gentle application, mix lavender essential oil with carrier oils like olive or melted coconut oil, using a ratio of 1 part of lavender oil to 6 parts carrier oil. After derma rolling, massage the blend onto your scalp, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and then wash it off with mild shampoo. 

    2. Rosemary Oil 

    Rosemary oil is an ideal companion for derma rollers for various reasons. Its lightweight texture ensures a non-oil feel, leaving air fresh post-application. It regulates sebum production, preventing excess greasiness and flatness. Rich in antioxidants, rosemary oil delays premature greying and enhances scalp circulation for faster hair regrowth. Additionally, it addressed scalp acne, offering soothing and antifungal properties to alleviate itchiness and maintain a clean, healthy scalp. 

    Application method: For rosemary essential oil, almond and pumpkin seed oils are excellent career options. Combine a few drops of rosemary oil with 3 tablespoons of any carrier oil, apply after derma rolling, and leave it on for 4-6 hours. Wash it off using a mild shampoo. Consistently follow this routine for a minimum of 6 months to observe noticeable changes in hair growth. 

    3. Thyme Oil 

    Thyme oil, rich in thymol, is a potent addition to your derma rolling routine. Packed with nutrients and antioxidants, it promotes new hair growth and boosts volume. Thyme oils' anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties maintain a healthy scalp, fostering the formation of new hair strands.

    Application method: For application, mix 1-2 drops of thyme oil with a carrier oil, gently massage onto the scalp, and leave for 10-15 minutes. Follow with a mild shampoo and conditioner. Limit thyme oil treatment to once every 3-4 weeks to prevent scalp sensitization and irritation.

    4. Cedarwood Oil

    For a healthy scalp, cedarwood essential oil is a great ally when combined with derma rolling. This emollient oil boosts circulation, fights dryness and flakiness, and regulates sebum to prevent excessive greasiness. Cedarwood oil, like other oils on this list, has antifungal and antibacterial properties to manage scalp infections. Regular use results in well-hydrated, shiny, and bouncy hair, free from brittleness.

    Application method: To use, mix 2-3 drops of cedarwood oil with 1 tablespoon of raw, organic coconut oil, apply to the scalp, let it sit for 30 minutes, and then wash it off with a gentle shampoo and conditioner for optimal results.

    What are the Derma Roller for hair side effects?

    While the derma roller is an effective tool for hair growth there are few side effects too which one should understand before using derma rollers. 

    1. Immediate Reaction

    Micro-needling with derma rollers may lead to immediate reactions like bruising, oozing, redness, swelling, pain and the potential for scarring. These effects can impact overall comfort during the recovery periods. 

    2. Post-Procedure Effects and Recovery

    The treated area may experience redness and inflammation for a few days post-procedure. While these effects are expected to fade within 5 days, understanding the temporary nature of these reactions is crucial for managing expectations and ensuring a smoothie recovery process. 

    3. Potential Risks 

    Individuals with a history of acne, eczema, conditions hindering healing (like diabetes), or those on specific medications may not be eligible candidates for derma rolling. 

    4. Pregnancy Caution

    Pregnant individuals should avoid micro-needling due to potential risk to both mother and child. Understanding the potential risks and erring on the side of caution is vital for maternal and fetal health. 

    5. Sun Sensitivity

    The scalp may become more sensitive to the sun post-treatment. Regular sunscreen use or wearing a hat outdoors becomes essential to prevent sun damage and ensure optimal healing. 

    6. Risk of Infection 

    Despite the small needle size, there is a risk of infection. Strict aftercare practices, including keeping the treated area clean and dry is necessary. For those with serious health conditions, considering topical or oral antibiotics may be necessary to prevent infections and ensure a safe recovery. 

    Understanding and diligently following aftercare instructions are pivotal for minimizing side effects and promoting overall well-being during the derma rolling process. Consulting professionals through the journey and seeking doctors help when dealing with side effects is cruel. 


    In conclusion, derma rollers can help with hair growth, but it's essential to use them carefully. They stimulate hair follicles, but there may be temporary side effects like redness, swelling, pain and much more. Following proper aftercare is crucial to avoid infections and to get the best results. Before using a derma roller, it's smart to check with a healthcare professional, especially if you have a specific health condition. Derma rollers offer a unique way to address hair issues, but success depends on using them wisely and understanding what to expect, making them a valuable tool in a hair growth journey. 



    Does derma roller work for hair? 

    Individuals facing hair loss often explore derma roller for hair as an effective option. The derma roller is a manual tool equipped with numerous small needles that are rolled over the skin, generating numerous tiny pinpricks, referred to as micropores, on the skin's surface. This action serves as a signal to the brain to initiate the healing process, resulting in increased blood flow and collagen production in the targeted area.   

    What needle size is best for hair growth with a derma roller?

    A needle size between 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm is considered safe and effective for at-home derma rolling. This range stimulates the scalp without causing excessive discomfort.

    Derma roller for hair growth before and after result? 

    Derma roller usage for hair growth may show varied results among individuals. Before using, assess the condition of the scalp and set realistic expectations. After consistent use, some may experience improved hair texture, reduced hair loss, and enhanced thickness. However, individual responses differ, and results may take time. Before-and-after outcomes depend on factors like the severity of hair loss and adherence to proper usage and aftercare. Consulting with a healthcare professional can provide personalized guidance and insights into expected results based on individual circumstances.

    Is derma roller effective?

    Derma rollers effectively stimulate hair follicles, promoting natural growth. They contribute to collagen production, strengthening the scalp and supporting overall hair health. Additionally, the improvement in blood circulation aids in nutrient delivery to the hair follicles, promoting a conducive environment for growth.

    Does derma roller work for hair regrowth? 

    Derma rollers can potentially aid in hair regrowth by stimulating hair follicles through micro-needling, promoting increased blood circulation and collagen production on the scalp. Some users report positive outcomes, including enhanced hair thickness and regrowth. However, effectiveness may vary among individuals, and results depend on factors such as the severity of hair loss and consistent, proper usage. 



    Dr. Kalyani Deshmukh, M.D.


    Dr. Deshmukh is an MD (Dermatology, Venerology, and Leprosy) with more than 4 years of experience. She successfully runs her own practice and believes that a personalized service maximizes customer satisfaction.

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